Power Tools Explained
Wood Routers Explained: Trim, Plunge and Fixed-Base Routers
What a wood router does, the difference between trim, fixed-base and plunge routers, collet sizes, router bits, feed direction and how to rout safely.
A router is a high-speed motor that spins a shaped cutting bit. It rounds and decorates edges, cuts grooves and slots, trims laminate flush, cuts hinge recesses and makes joints. It is a woodworking tool rather than a renovation essential, but for furniture making and carpentry it opens up a new level of finish.
Quick answer
- Trim (compact) router: 6–8 mm or 1/4" collet, light and easy; ideal first router for edges and hinge recesses.
- Plunge router: lowers the spinning bit into the work; for grooves, mortises and templates.
- Fixed-base router: set depth before starting; great for edges and in a router table.
- Always move the router against the bit's rotation and take shallow passes.
Types of router
Trim router (compact / palm router)
Small, one-handed, typically 500–700 W or 18V cordless. Perfect for rounding over edges, chamfers, flush-trimming laminate and edge banding, and cutting hinge recesses with a template. Many come with an optional plunge base.
Fixed-base router
The bit depth is set before you start. Stable and precise for edge profiles, and the usual choice for mounting under a router table.
Plunge router
The motor rides on spring-loaded columns so you can lower the spinning bit into the middle of a board and lock it at depth. Essential for stopped grooves, mortises, inlays and template work. Larger models (1,400–2,300 W) take 12 mm or 1/2" bits.
Key specifications
- Variable speed: large-diameter bits must run slower.
- Soft start and constant electronics keep speed steady under load.
- Fine depth adjustment and a clear depth scale.
- Dust extraction port.
- Collet size: bits must match (a 1/4" bit does not fit a 6 mm collet properly).
Common router bits
| Bit | Use |
|---|---|
| Straight bit | Grooves, dados, rebates, hinge recesses |
| Round-over (with bearing) | Soft rounded edges |
| Chamfer | 45° bevelled edges |
| Flush-trim (bearing) | Trimming edges flush with a template or laminate |
| Rebate (rabbet) | Stepped edges for back panels and joints |
| Ogee, cove, cove-and-bead | Decorative edges |
| Dovetail | Dovetail joints with a jig |
Carbide-tipped bits are the standard; buy a few quality bits instead of a large cheap set.
Feed direction: the most important rule
Seen from above, a router bit spins clockwise. When routing an outside edge, move the router counter-clockwise around the workpiece (left to right when the edge faces you). This way the bit cuts into the wood and pulls against your feed. Moving the other way ("climb cutting") makes the router grab and run along the edge uncontrollably.
How to rout an edge profile
- Clamp the workpiece so nothing blocks the router base.
- Insert the bit at least three-quarters of the shank length into the collet and tighten. Never bottom it out completely; pull it back slightly.
- Set the depth. For large profiles, plan two or three shallow passes.
- Set the speed suitable for the bit diameter.
- Hold the router with both hands, base flat. Start it away from the wood.
- Feed steadily against the rotation. Do not stop in one place or the wood will burn.
- Rout end grain first, then long grain, to clean up any tear-out at corners.
Safety
- Eye and hearing protection always. A mask for MDF.
- Unplug before changing bits.
- Never hold small pieces by hand; use clamps or a router table with guards and push blocks.
Frequently asked questions
Which router should a beginner buy?
A trim router with a plunge base kit. It is easy to control and handles most furniture and DIY tasks.
Why is my router burning the wood?
Feeding too slowly, a blunt bit, too high speed for the bit size, or cutting too deep in one pass.
This guide is general information, not professional advice. Always read your tool's manual, use the right protective equipment and follow local building and electrical codes. See our disclaimer.