How to Replace a Kitchen or Bathroom Faucet (Tap)

Replacing a worn or dated faucet (tap) is one of the most satisfying beginner plumbing jobs. Most modern mixer taps attach with flexible hoses and a single mounting nut or bracket, so no soldering or pipe cutting is usually needed. The hardest part is often working in the cramped space under the sink.

Before you buy the new faucet

• Check the number of holes in your sink or worktop (single-hole mixer vs two or three holes).
• Check the connection sizes and types under the sink (e.g. isolation valves with 1/2" or 3/8" threads in different regions, or 15 mm pipe in the UK).
• Check the hose length: it must reach your valves without stretching.
• If your home has low water pressure, check the faucet's pressure requirements.

Step 1: Shut off the water

1. Close the hot and cold isolation valves under the sink (turn a quarter turn for lever valves; clockwise for screw valves). If there are none, shut off the main water supply.
2. Open the faucet to release pressure and check that the water has stopped.
3. Place a bucket and towels under the connections.

Step 2: Disconnect the old faucet

1. Photograph the connections.
2. Use two wrenches to loosen the hose or pipe connections: one to hold the valve, one to turn the nut. This prevents twisting pipes.
3. Remove the mounting nut or bracket under the sink with the basin wrench. Old nuts may be corroded; penetrating oil helps.
4. Lift out the old faucet and clean the sink surface of old sealant and grime.

Step 3: Install the new faucet

1. Screw the flexible hoses into the base of the new faucet hand-tight (plus the small extra turn specified in the instructions, often with a small spanner). Do not overtighten.
2. Fit the gasket or O-ring at the base of the faucet.
3. Feed the hoses through the hole and position the faucet.
4. From below, fit the mounting plate and nut or threaded rod. Tighten while someone holds the faucet straight from above.

Step 4: Connect to the water supply

1. Connect the hot hose to the hot valve (usually left) and cold to cold. Many hoses are colour-coded.
2. Most flexible hoses seal with a rubber washer: no PTFE tape needed. Tighten hand-tight plus a quarter to half turn with a wrench.
3. Ensure hoses are not kinked or twisted.

Step 5: Test for leaks

1. Remove the aerator from the spout if possible (it catches debris).
2. Open the isolation valves slowly.
3. Run hot and cold water for a minute, then check all connections with a dry paper towel.
4. Tighten slightly any connection that weeps. Refit the aerator.
5. Check again after a few hours and the next day.

Frequently asked questions